Today I want to discuss another oil issue. Imagine the situation like this. It is time to change to oil and you take your car to the auto service. The next day you get the car back and drive it for a year.

A year later you wake up with some strange feeling and go to read the user’s manual of your car. You find out it was filled with synthetic oil when sold, but at the service station they’ve poured a regular one. It looks like you’ve been diving with the wrong oil for a year! You call the dealership of the car manufacturer and ask whether the change of the oil type might affect the car’s performance, and they say it can. Then you call the auto service and they claim that it doesn’t matter. Who’s right in this case?

In fact, the change of the oil is not likely to cause much damage in a year, but in the long run it might affect the wear rate of the engine components. 1 year is such small a period to ruin the engine completely, so I would say that there is nothing to worry about with the engine.

Yet, there is one thing to worry about – the auto service. To tell you the truth, the idea of the professionals doing their job actually clashes with the common sense when such things happen.

If they are the change oil in an Audi, they have to consult the Audi’s recommendations, if it is GM, then – GM’s. Unless they do their job properly they shouldn’t be trusted. Oil change must be done according to car manufacturer’s recommendations, but not to what they feel like doing.

Moreover, such a dramatic mistake can affect the car warranty. If the car was designed to run on synthetic oil it should be synthetic and not any other type of oil.

At the same time the question about the service station remains open. If the type of the oil is not specified the general practice is to replace it with regular mineral oil. And it might be your own error that you hadn’t specified the oil type before giving the car to the experts.

So, what is the major conclusion we can arrive at from the situation? When you need to change oil, go only to a reliable service center and always specify the type of oil your car is designed to run on.

Preventing Tire Rack: Does Underinflation Affect the Performance?

Share This

It is a common knowledge that the carrying capacity of tires directly depend on the size and the air pressure. Bigger tires and higher air pressures allow more load capacity than the smaller and less inflated ones.

A properly inflated tire it more resistible to wear as the weight of the load is distributed evenly through the surface of the tire. At the same time people seldom realize that an underinflated tire has a different reaction on driver’s actions that the correctly inflated one.

Once an experiment was conducted to test the performance of an underinflated and normally inflated tires. The tires used in the experiment were Goodyear Eagle GT-HR High Performance All-Season radials.

One of the tested cars was wearing the properly inflated tires (the manufacture recommends 29psi front and 33 psi rear). The second car was wearing 30% lower inflated tires (20 psi front and 23 psi rear). This 30% was chosen deliberately as it is the lowest pressure which is not warned about by passive pressure monitoring systems.

The first part of the test was a visual identification of the underinflated tires. With the modern low-profile tires it turned out to be quite a complicated task and it revealed one important conclusion: eyes cannot be used as reliable tire pressure gauges.

The second part of the test was the performance test. A number of drivers tested the properly inflated and underinflated tires. And everyone participating in the test agreed that while the behavior of correctly inflated tires was predictable and the car responded well, the car with underinflated tires responded slower (with the front tires being slightly faster than the rear ones).

The underinflated tires delivered acceptable performance when the car was on straight sections, but when it came to passing turns, the car was a little slower than the proper version. The test showed 7% of speed loss for underinflated tires.

To cut the long story short, if a manufacturer wanted to add some additional spice to its new tires, if underinflated, all the effects are lost completely.

So, we arrive at the only possible conclusion: if you want the performance of your tires to be the most effective and adequate, you need to follow the instructions given in the owner’s manual. Moreover, you need to check the tire inflation at least once a month.

Preventing Tire Rack: How to Measure Tire wear with US Coins

Share This

Car parts are not eternal all of them need replacing sooner or later. Today I want to talk to you about tires. How can one learn that his/her tires need replacement? Well, there are various ways to get to know that fact, but I would like to give you the most practical one. Here is the way which is used by thousands of auto owners across the US.

Measuring a tire tread depth gauge with American coins.

1. Insert a penny into a number of grooves across the tire. If you see that a part of Lincoln’s head is lower than the higher part of the thread it means that you still have 2/32” of the thread depth in possession.

2. Insert a quarter into several grooves across the tire. If you see that part of Washington’s hear is lower than the higher part of the thread, you still have 4/32” of the thread depth in possession

3. Insert a penny in thread grooves across the tire. If you see that the top of the Lincoln Memorial is lower than the top of the thread you still have 6/32” of the thread in possession.

Once you are done with the first location of the tire you need to measure the depth of the threads across the entire tire. In order to do it measure the depths in the middle of the tire as well as on its sides. This helps to determine the unevenness of the wear and some other aspects as mechanical damages etc.

In the overwhelming majority of states the law prohibits driving on a tire as the wear reaches 2/32” of the thread depth. Practically all the modern tires are equipped with wear indicators (so-called “wear bars”). These are the marks that are build into the tire with the goal of showing the driver when the tire is no longer legally usable.

Nevertheless, the law regulations aren’t always the best. The mark the crucial point when the tire cannot be used any longer on a dry surface. As for the wet surfaces, at 2/32” of the remaining thread depth the tire cannot resist hydroplaning and its traction on snow is close to zero.

In fact, even when the wear reaches 4/32” of the thread depth you should consider changing tires. You need to realize that all the negative effects of a wet road are eliminated by removing water via the threads from the surface of the tire. When the threads are not deep enough to perform their direct functions, the tire becomes uncontrollable.

As for snow-covered surfaces, the proper time to replace the tires is when the wear reaches 6/32” of the threads depth. When you are driving on the snow the tires need to have sufficient thread depth to remove snow as they roll. That’s why some winter tires have “wear bars” at 6/32” of threads depth.

Advanced Auto Parts Replacement: What to Do with the Clutch?

Share This

The other day a friend of mine popped in for a chart. I had delicious biscuits and we had tea and the conversation went well, but let’s get down to the point I wanted to tell you about. He told me about clutch problem in his car. He said something like that:

“You know, Nick, my car’s not grabbing any more when I try to accelerate. I have to start up very slow and accelerate extremely slowly. My clutch is slipping for sure as the rpm goes up.”

He wanted to know if he could do anything to the clutch (he suggested changing some fluids or whatever) besides replacing it with a new one as at the moment he didn’t have much money to spend on the purpose. He also wondered if there are any online magazines where ho could buy good and cheap parts.

First of all, I asked him about the type of transmission in his car. It really matters whether he’s having a manual or automatic. If it is a standard manual transmission, he might be able to get it repaired (though very unlikely). The only thing that came to my mind was readjusting where the clutch plate catches (engages/disengages). In fact, the conclusion I arrived at from the very beginning of his story is that he will have to spend money on a new transmission.

After all, my worst expectations fulfilled. Hearing all the details and symptoms of his car disease I arrived at the conclusion that there is no other way but replacing the clutch.

He also wanted to know if I knew some online shops that could help him get great deals and bargains.

Of course I DID know them. The stores I recommended were:

• www.autopartswarehouse.com
• www.rockauto.com
• overstock.com

I personally used the services of these stores so I can guarantee that those stores are reliable. The first store though seems the perfect choice. They have quality products and service. Moreover, they also have discounts offers and you are likely to find there the car parts you need. Two or three times I bought the stuff for my car there and, so I recommended the site to my friend.

The last thing I would like to stop on (as I did in the conversation with my friend) is that preventing failures of car systems is easier and cheaper than their repairs. He decided that he needed something done to his clutch too late to help it. If he noticed it earlier he could have gone without having to replace the part.

Tribal Flame Designs Right from your Tailpipe

Share This

(more…)

Share This

Do you want the doors of your car lift up into the skies? I suppose you know it is possible provided you have so-called Lambo-like doors. This door type is also called VDC, vertical door, tilt-up, vertical-lift door, scissors, Diablo, butterfly door. The names are different but the substance is just the same. This is the door construction that opens upwards.

I’m absolutely sure that just about every car owner would like his car to have this type of door construction. In fact, everything is possible. There are companies that perform that sort of change in the US. But before sending your car to undergo such a serious customization (I called it serious deliberately: it is much more than changing a bumper or replacing the basic rims as it can affect the selling capability of your car) you have to give it a careful research.

Basically there are two types of vertical doors:

1. The bolt-on (designed for each vehicle separately)
2. The weld-on (universal kit for any vehicle)

Each type of kits features new hinges and shocks.

The installation of bolt-on system takes 10 times less time and effort than that of a weld-on one. At the same time the latter system rarely need adjustment.

Another fact you need to give serious thinking to is whether you are planning to sell you car. If you do you should consider belt-on system as it is easily reversible.

The pioneer in the branch of bolt-on kits is the NJ company Decah. They invented the hinge system called VDC (which stands for “Vertical Door Conversion”).

There is one more company that produces the same sort of kits but with a slightly different focus in their production. It is LSD Solutions North America. They emphasize the safety of the construction.

The second vertical door solution is weld-on system. The system was invented and firstly applied by GT Factory. The system allows the doors to be adjusted so that they could open up to a full 90 degrees. Moreover, the system features 2 heavy-duty nickel hinges and 4 150-psi shocks.

The difference is not only in the construction of the systems. There is also an obvious appearance and behavior difference:

The bolt-on systems use two short high-pressure shocks (nitrogen-filled) whereas weld-on systems rely on low-pressure long shocks with 8 inches of stroke.

The installation of scissor doors doesn’t come dirt cheap. You’ll have to deprive yourself of $699 – 5 000 depending on the car and the complacency of its construction. So you have to weigh carefully all the pros and cons of such a modification before actually realizing it.

Crash Test Photographs and Ratings: Isuzu D-Max 2008 Crash-Test

Share This

Total Rating: 1/5

Pedestrian protection: 1/4

Children protection: 2/5

Front crash: 2 (13%)

Side crash: 15 (84%)

Total: 17 (43%)

Pedestrian protection: 2 (6%)

Children protection: 22 (37%)

The total failure in the front crash-test didn’t allow the Japanese car to get more than 2 Euro NCAP stars even though the final sum is slightly higher. More than that, the crossed seconds star means that the probability of getting a deadly injure is very high.

Front impact

At a front impact the interior of the car was significantly damaged. In case of a crash the driver will be in tough conditions. Not being equipped with airbags, D-Max showed poor head protection. The loads on the dummy’s chest and neck were so huge that they were stated as incompatible with life – this is what the crossed second star means. The elements of the dashboard are dangerous for the driver’s and passenger’s knees. The brake pedal displaced upwards which could cause serious crus traumas of the driver. The flood under the driver’s legs got deformed creating danger for the feet.

Side impact

The side impact figures were much better than those of a front impact. The car could get extra point for a column crash but it is not equipped with side airbags.

Children safety

The holding systems used in the crash-tests:

• 18-month kid - Recaro Start opposite the direction of the motion
• 3-year-old child - Recaro Start forward the direction of the motion

The head movement of a 3-year-old child at a front impact exceeded the admissible norms, which can lead to its blow against the interior elements. At the side impact this was reduced by side head-rests of the children’s seat.

The car under testing wasn’t equipped with a front passenger airbag. It is available optionally, but it is impossible to switch off for the installation of a children’s seat. The warning sign is available only in English. The presence of ISOFIX fastenings is not marked properly.

Pedestrian protection

The bumper, and the front end of the bonnet didn’t get protection points at all. Only the part of the front end that is potentially contacting the head of an adult got more or less tolerant result.

Basic Safety systems installed on the car in Europe:

• Front air-bags
• Front safety belts with preload system and strain limiter
• ISOFIX fastenings of the rear side seats

Unpainted Car Parts: What’s That?

Share This

When you buy car parts on eBay or on other car part stores you can encounter parts that are labeled as “unpainted.” So what does an unpainted part mean?

Let’s make up a kind of situation. You want to buy a small anti-wing for your car. You go to eBay and find there the one you like. It is labeled “unpainted”. You have a silver car. Does it mean that if it is naturally silver then you won’t have to sped money on paining it?

Basically, an unpainted part means that no paint is applied to it. You get the color it came out of the manufacturing plant (and it might even be raw metal). In the case of something metal, it is usually just coated in primer, which is used as a base coat for the paint to stick to, and also adds a level of rust protection for steel parts. Sometimes aluminum parts come totally bare. Primer is a very dull, light grayish color. It means that if the natural paint is silver then you don’t have to paint it at all.

But at the same time, you might have to paint it. Unpainted for plastic means just that. No paint. just the color of the plastic, whatever it may be. Unless you’re lucky and get a spoiler made of plastic that matches your car color, you’re going to have to paint the part. The majority of anti-wings come as black plastic, so you’ll have to paint it silver to suit the car color.

So what can we conclude out of this situation? Firstly, that unpainted metal (or aluminum) parts come covered in primer or even bare. Secondly, unpainted plastic parts usually come black. It means that unless the color of your car completely suits the color of the part, you will have to paint the latter.

What Everybody Ought to Know about the Difference between Subaru Legacy and Subaru Legacy Outback

Share This

What’s the difference between a Legacy and a Legacy Outback?

You know that Subaru is producing Legacy and Legacy Outback. So, there is a question: what is the basic difference between the cars. At the same time the first question causes the second one: can the Outback parts be installed on average Legacy and vice versa?

Let’s fancy a situation like that: you buy a 1997 Subaru Legacy Outback. It is a good and splendid car. It is not new though and has a door that is to be replaced (that’s why you spent $3000 out of the average price market of $3700). You run a Google search and find out that your local junk yard has the kind of door you need. With only one major disadvantage: it is a 1997 Subaru Legacy (not Legacy Outback) door. You remember buying other parts, but you don’t remember whether they were Legacy or Legacy Outback one (maybe you just didn’t care). But a door is nor a wiper blade, it is much bigger and, of course important body part not to mention that is costs much more than various trifles. You don’t want to end up with a useless car door lining against the wall of your garage.

So you have in mind one question: are body parts totally compatible between two cars and what is the basic difference between the models?

So there comes the answer: In fact, there is no body part difference between Subaru Legacy, Subaru Legacy Outback and Subaru Liberty.

The Outback and Liberty, however, have higher springs and 2-tone paintwork. That’s it.

But there is one thing that you should keep in mind. You have to buy parts for the Legacy of the same generation as yours. Legacy has had 4 generations already:

1. 1989–1992

2. 1993–1997

3. 1998–2003

4. 2003–present

So, if it is a 1997 Legacy Outback, make sure that you don’t buy a 1998 Legacy door, otherwise you’ll end up with another useless piece of metal in your garage.

Let me make a kind of summary. Subaru Legacy Outback is a kind of “cross-country” Legacy with higher springs and some other specific features (for instance the engine line: Legacy – 2.2 and 2.5; Outback – 2.2 L). The only problem one can encounter the original body parts is the 2-tone paintwork of the Outback.

Crash Test Photographs and Ratings: Mitsubishi L200 2008 Crash-Test

Share This

Mitsubishi L200 (2008)

Total Rating: 4/5

Pedestrian protection: 1/4

Children protection: 3/5

Front crash: 9 (57%)

Side crash: 16 (89%)

Total: 27 (68%)

Pedestrian protection: 2 (6%)

Children protection: 32 (54%)

The Mitsubishi pickup hasn’t showed the best result in crash-tests gaining only 4 Euro NCAP stars. Nevertheless, even this not-that-high result enables the car to come first among all the tested by Euro NCAP cars in the respect of adults protection.

Front impact

The protection of the chest is at a low level – the sensors on the dummy’s chest showed increased loads. The floor under the driver’s legs warped, but on the whole the interior resisted the impact well. The front passengers can be damaged by the elements of the dashboard.

Side impact

L200 has got the highest marks for side impact. The car is not equipped with a side airbag (which increases the protection of the head) that’s why the car didn’t undergo the additional side crash (against a column).

Children Protection

The holding systems used in the crash-tests:

• 18-month kid - Britax Romer Baby Safe Plus opposite the direction of the motion
• 3-year-old child - Britax Romer Duo Plus ISOFIX forward the direction of the motion

The front passenger airbag can be switched off in order to mount a children seat. But the current state of the airbag is not shown to the driver distinctly enough. The presence of ISOFIX fastenings isn’t marked properly either

Pedestrian Protection

L200 got 2 points out of 36 for the protection of pedestrians. All the elements of the front end of the car carry potential danger for them.

Basic Safety systems installed on the car in Europe:

• Front air-bags
• Front safety belts with preload system and strain limiter
• The alarm of the unfastened front belts
• ISOFIX fastenings of the rear side seats

Change the Oil in your Automobile: Which Oil to Choose?

Share This